Thursday, August 26, 2010

Southern Charm; or Lack Thereof


‘Anything that comes out of the South is going to be called grotesque by the northern reader, unless it is grotesque, in which case it is going to be called realistic.’ Flannery O’Connor

When I was learning about the concept of Gothic space in the literature of the American South, I thought it was easy to imagine how such vast spaces could contribute to the sense of fright and obscurity. But it wasn’t until I actually saw them that I realized what partially served as an inspiration to William Faulkner, Eudora Welty, Thomas Wolfe and many others. We were driving for what seemed like forever along miles of cornfields without being passed by any other car. Every now and then, a typical southern-style mansion emerged on the horizon, surrounded by boundless stretches of land. We arrived at a state park in Tennessee and intended on spending a night there. The entrance to the inn was barred with iron chains, while the adjacent campground featured nothing more than empty sites. The only inhabitants of that ghost park were three stray dogs wandering aimlessly among the trees. There was a scenic lake nearby, full of exotic-looking trees, with a shore which suggested that it could be a perfect habitat for alligators. Feeling astonished and somewhat uneasy at this absolute lack of human presence traces, we left the place in search of a better lodging. It took another long drive down empty roads and next to limitless fields before we reached a town with a motel to spend the night in.

Southern towns, with their slow living pace, sun-beaten streets and relative homogeneity, evoke the ideas of colonial times gone by. They create an impression as though time had stopped flying and people were indifferently stuck in a moment, reluctant to take a step forward. That was a huge transition from the rush dominating the streets and corners of NY or Chicago. Whereas people may relish undisturbed everyday existence, enterprises certainly don’t. I needed to get some gas and stopped at a station just to find out that it had gone bust. It was in Cairo, a place located at the intersection of three states – Illinois, Kentucky and Missouri. One could think that this sort of business can’t be doomed to failure and is bound to thrive, yet in southern states, there were numerous stations which had gone out of business. Nozzles lying chaotically on the ground significantly contributed to the visions of derelict and undeveloped ghost towns.

That people speak different accents depending on a state should not strike anyone as a surprise. What I found shocking, though, was that we met someone whose manner of uttering English phrases made me reconsider my language comprehension skills:D While chilling around Lake Grenada in Mississippi, we were approached by a middle-aged Arkansas native who brought what Jeff refers to as ‘southern drawl’ to an entirely new level. The language he spoke could only vaguely be defined as English. In fact, it resembled a mix of mumbling and unidentified sounds produced at the back of one’s throat without any tongue movement. It took me quite some time to get over the initial shock and begin to fully understand what the newly-met redneck wished to communicate. And since he was obviously looking for some company, the conversation was far from brief. Although I was only obscurely interested in keeping it going, there was definitely one advantage to it. Talking to simple people frequently gives a hands-on insight into the habits and everyday lifestyle of a community. We found out that redneck southerners liked carrying hunting rifles around and shooting animals, including creatures as harmless as possums. Within over 40 years of his life, the guy has seen only 3 states. His idea of Switzerland was based on an area located in Arkansas, which he called ‘Little Switzerland.’ However, he admitted that the place didn’t look as awe-inspiring as that small European country he used to see pictures of while learning Geography at school as a little boy.

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